Jim Rosica
The downtown restaurant that first brought corned beef sandwiches to Tallahassee will live on under new ownership.
Andrew’s, known as the capital’s “longest lived restaurant business in the same location,” is changing hands from original owner Andy Reiss to general manager Jack Penrod.
The passing of the baton includes the metamorphosis of its downstairs sister eatery, Andrew’s 228 Restaurant, into Brix & Bones, a wine bar and steakhouse. It should open by early next year.
Andrew’s has long been the default lunch spot for the city’s political set, and crowds swell during the yearly legislative session, jamming the sidewalk dining area.
Reiss declined an interview, referring questions to Penrod. He started as a server at Andrew’s in 2000, rising to general manager. The terms of the sale, which includes the building at South Adams and West Jefferson streets, are confidential.
Reiss began talking to Penrod about taking over the business several years ago, and he started lining up financing, he said.
“It’s still kind of surreal; it really hasn’t sunk in,” Penrod said during a break from Thursday’s dinner service. “But it is a dream realized … Andy was — and is — a great mentor and I’m up to the task.”
• • •
The institution now called Andrew’s Capital Grill & Bar began as The Deli in late 1972.
“There was no deli, there was no corned beef or pastrami, no bagel,” in the capital city, Reiss told Tallahassee Magazine in 2009. “I’m not talking about some far-out cuisine, I’m talking about a deli.”
Since then, Reiss has run through a number of concepts at that location and elsewhere in town, such as the jazz bar Maxin’s (named for his wife), Italian eatery Tutto Bene, Andrew’s 2nd Act and Andrew’s 228. A catering business, which Penrod also will own, still is going strong.
“Former employees are so loyal to Andy and Andrew’s Downtown that they started a Facebook group called “At some point in my life I worked for Andrew Reiss“ and it has almost 300 members,” the restaurant’s website says.
The business, within eyeshot of the Capitol, is known for naming its sandwiches after elected officials, lobbyists and other notables.
A “Jeb (Bush)” Burger is still on the menu, along with a “Ron Book” Pittsburgh Pastrami and a “Crisa-fill-you-up” Gorgonzola Burger after House Speaker Steve Crisafulli.
In a 2012 profile, Tallahassee Magazine explained Reiss’ longevity in the business: “… when the winds of change blew, Reiss changed with them.”
“For example, when the Legislature enacted a law banning lobbyists from giving legislators any meals, trips or gifts, many local restaurants were decimated by the loss of business,” the story said. “To compensate, Reiss moved his catering division away from government jobs to more weddings and locally based work.”
• • •
Lawyer-lobbyist Steve Uhlfelder of Tallahassee has known Reiss since their Tau Epsilon Phi fraternity days at the University of Florida.
“I put him in charge of the (fraternity house’s) kitchen, even back then,” he said. “He has a special talent, along with being one of the hardest working and most compassionate people I know.” After studying accounting for a couple years at UF, Reiss decided to shift gears and transferred to Florida State University to study hospitality.
Here in the capital, Reiss “created a landmark,” Uhlfelder said. “That’ll always be his corner, no matter what.”
The two men both have beach houses in Walton County, he added: “I expect I’ll see him a lot more often there.”
Penrod said not to expect major changes to the main Andrew’s, including the name, though he’s “excited about putting my stamp on it.”
“I’m really looking forward to the future, but I still have to pinch myself,” he said.
