Bruce Ritchie: Environmentalists worried about impact of grass-fed cattle

Grass-fed beef is a health-food trend that’s been spreading since at least 2010 and its advocates say it also benefits the environment.

The trend also is creating huge changes in the cattle industry in Florida, but not necessarily in ways that some environmentalists would like.

In North Florida, billionaire Frank Stronach has invested an estimated $200 million since 2010 to buy 86,356 acres in Levy, Marion, Taylor and Putnam counties, according to a 2013 article in Beef Magazine.

Stronach also plans to spend $60 million to clear pine forests and convert them into pastures. He plans on having cows on 50,000 to 60,000 acres, the magazine article said.

The American Grassfed Association says pasture-based farming restores natural ecosystems and wildlife habitat, reduces reliance on petrochemicals, improves soil and reduces greenhouse gas emissions. But some people disagree, particularly those who say eating little or no meat would do more to benefit the planet.

In 2011, Stronach’s 30,000-acre Adena Springs Ranch in Marion County applied to the St. Johns River Water Management District for a permit to use up to 13.2 million gallons of water daily.

That appalled environmentalists, and the controversy contributed to springs legislation passing the Florida Senate this year. The bill was not taken up in the House.

Adena Springs, now called Sleepy Creek Lands, has reduced its pumping request since 2011 to 2.4 million gallons per day, according to the district.

Earlier this month, Sierra Club Florida and the St. Johns Riverkeeper filed a legal challenge, claiming the district hasn’t done enough to ensure that springs are protected from over-pumping and that waterways are protected from agricultural pollution.

The Sleepy Creek Lands website says a retention pond will capture storm water and there will be a state-of-the-art nutrient management plan.

“We plan to protect natural resources while creating a one-of-a-kind Marion County grass-fed beef product,” a Sleepy Creek Lands telephone greeting said. There was no response to messages requesting comment.

But the dispute represents more than a fight between agriculture and environmentalists. It represents a big-time shift in how the cattle industry in Florida has operated.

Florida’s cattle industry is one of the 15 largest in the United States, according to the Florida Cattlemen’s Association. Most of Florida’s cattle farms raise calves until they are old enough to be shipped to the Midwest, where they are fattened on grain feed in their final months before being slaughtered.

The trend toward Florida beef started when grain prices soared, fueled by drought in western states. And the health and environmental benefits of grass-fed beef meant green consumers were willing to pay more.

Now, the Seminole Tribe of Florida also is working to create its own brand of Florida beef, said Sam Ard of the Florida Cattlemen’s Association.

“Simple economics are driving the equation,” Ard said.

But environmentalists say clear-cutting forests in Marion County, pumping water to irrigate pastures and spreading cow manure does more environmental harm than good.

“I get it,” Lisa Rinnaman of the St. Johns Riverkeeper said of the touted environmental benefits of grass-fed beef.

“I’m not opposed to grass-fed beef,” she said. “I am opposed to further polluting our waterways.”

Bruce Ritchie is an independent journalist covering environment and growth management issues in Tallahassee. He also is editor of Floridaenvironments.com.